Long Lasting Lowlights
Posted 08-24-2009 6:21 pm
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Tips for creating Long Lasting Lowlights - from Kadus Guy, Jesse Skittrall
Arggh! It is that time of year again! If you are anything like me (and I think you are) your guests have gone from blond to blonder over the summer, then went outside in the heat and sun, and their hair is now "Blonderexic." As the summer comes to a close and we move into fall and the lovely tan fades, our guests learn that their new faded skin tone blends with their hair color, often leaving them washed out. This will undoubtedly leave them wanting more contrast without going completely back to their natural tone. The answer? Lowlights!
Here are some great tips to create lowlights that last:
-Follow your favorite highlight retouch placement pattern -Fold the foil to the line of demarcation and then fold over encasing the highlighted hair completely in the foil allowing you to color in between the foils unencumbered -Apply lowlights every other foil below the occipital -Apply lowlights every third foil from the crest down -Rarely apply lowlights on the crown surface of the hair to create a believable finish -Focus on weaving lowlights wide in width (chunky) but narrow in depth -Repigmentize lowlights with Fervidol Brilliant and water (1:1 ratio) -Formulate repigmentizer stain 2 levels lighter than finished target color -Formulate the repigmentizer stain tone to match the underlying pigment of the repigmentizers level -Apply the repigmetizer stain with a sponge brush in a very light manner removing excess with the side of the sponge -Apply repigmentizer stain from porous ends up to line of demarcation -Use Selecta Premium with 20 volume for target color to maximize opaqueness and durability -When matching the natural regrowth color only apply from line of demarcation out leaving the regrowth untouched. -Apply lowlights over regrowth when going lighter or darker only. Once the highlight lowlight retouch is applied; apply Fervidol Brilliant on subsections between foils that is no more that 2 levels darker than the lightened ends (8/0 + 9/36). When applying to the subsections below the occipital, only pull the Fervidol Brilliant ¾ of the way down the shaft of the hair leaving the ends with the existing color. Repeat below the crest line but only pull the color ½ way down the midshaft leaving the existing lightened ends.
-When retouching highlights apply a corresponding Fervidol Color & Care Mask to the ends to protect, refresh and create shine
To take it to the next level try this as well:
Once processed take your work to the next level by treating the hair with Fervidol Color & Care Customized mask with your favorite Fervidol Color & Care Color Liquid (my fav is 9/36 + 0/9).
I know you are going to love this technique as much as I do! I find I usually do this once to twice yearly to balance out "Blonde build-up". Make sure and charge appropriately for your time, artistry and expertise.
Join me for a live complimentary webinar on October 4th at 11am Seattle time. To receive an invitation go to Kadustoday.com and register!
Happy Color!
"Making hair color is chemistry, how you apply it is where the artistry/fashion comes into play!"-Jessee Skittrall-Kadusguy
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